Used car inspection checklist

Inspect in daylight, in dry weather, with the car cold if you can arrange it: an engine that has already been warmed up hides starting problems. Take your time. A seller who rushes you is giving you information.

Before you go

• Run a PPSR check on the VIN.
• Do the free registration check for the state the car is registered in.
• Ask the seller when it was last serviced, how many owners it has had, and whether it has been in an accident.
• Ask them not to warm the car up before you arrive.

Paperwork

• The VIN on the car matches the VIN on the registration papers and on your PPSR certificate.
• The name on the registration papers is the person selling the car.
• There is a service logbook or receipts, and the dates and kilometres in it make sense against the odometer.

Outside

• Rust, especially around wheel arches, sills, door bottoms and the boot floor.
• Paint that does not match between panels, or uneven gaps between panels. Both can point to accident repairs.
• Every light and indicator works, including brake and reverse lights.
• The windscreen has no cracks.
• All four tyres have enough tread and are wearing evenly. Uneven wear can point to a steering or suspension problem.
• There is a spare wheel or repair kit, and the jack and tools.

Under the car and under the bonnet

• No fresh drips on the ground where the car has been parked.
• Oil on the dipstick is at the right level. Coolant is at the right level and looks clean.
• Hoses and belts are not cracked or frayed.
• The engine starts easily from cold and settles to a steady idle without smoke from the exhaust.

Inside

• Every seatbelt pulls out, retracts and latches.
• No warning lights stay on after the engine starts.
• Windows, mirrors, central locking, air conditioning, wipers and the infotainment system all work.
• Wear on the driver's seat, pedals and steering wheel looks consistent with the kilometres shown.
• No damp carpets or musty smell, which can mean a water leak.

The test drive

Drive for at least fifteen to twenty minutes and cover different roads: slow streets, a stretch at highway speed, and somewhere you can brake firmly and turn tightly.

• The steering is straight and the car does not pull to one side.
• The brakes stop the car in a straight line without noise or vibration.
• Gear changes are smooth. In a manual, the clutch does not slip or shudder.
• There are no knocks or clunks over bumps, and no new noises when turning.
• The temperature gauge stays steady.

Make sure you are insured to drive the car before you set off; ask the seller what their policy covers.

When to pay for a professional inspection

A checklist finds the obvious. It will not find a failing transmission, hidden structural repairs or an engine fault that only shows up on a diagnostic scan. A mechanic's inspection is the safest option, and it also gives you something to negotiate with. If you do not have a mechanic, your state or territory motoring club can recommend an inspector.

If you find a problem

A fault is not always a reason to walk away. Get a repair quote and use it in the negotiation. Walk away when the seller will not let you inspect properly, the paperwork does not match the car, or the story changes.